high acid whites
Acidity gets talked a lot about in descriptions of and conversations about wines, but it doesn't always get explained very well. "This wine has high acid" sounds like it means something—and it does—but what exactly?
One way of thinking about acidity in a wine is by drinking a glass of water because water is low in acid and high in alkaline. When filtering water, acid is removed to make it even more alkaline. Water is a life necessity, but it can feel heavy and flat on the palate.
In complete contrast, citrus drinks like grapefruit, lemon, or lime juice can be undrinkable because of their high acidity. That's why lemonade is made with added sugar to soften the acidity and make the drink more palatable; and why lime juice is used in a margarita to add acidity to the very drying tequila.
A great exercise in understanding acidity is to squeeze a couple of lemons and drink the juice: it will be highly tart and not pleasant. Then add a little bit of sugar, taste again. Add a little bit more sugar, and so on, until the acidity and sugar are in balance.
Balance is perhaps the most important aspect of a wine: we notice certain structural aspects which stand out, but which are balanced by other structural aspects such as sugar, tannins, or oak.
A wine low in acidity is flabby and flat, lacking freshness. A wine high in acidity enlivens the wine, gives it ageing capacity, while also making the wine immediate and easy to drink. But how much acidity you want in a wine depends on your palate: a high acid wine can seem tart or aggressively piercing. One of the main reasons people are uncomfortable with Riesling is because of its sweet reputation, but it's also because the acidity can be so high and sharp.
Which is where food comes in. High acid wines are very refreshing in the summer (think lemonade again!) but they can be drunk all year round with various food pairings. The high acid of Riesling cuts through the fatness of game foods (goose is a classic German pairing at Christmas); the high acid of Chablis matches the high acid of fish and seafood; the high acid of Champagne likewise.
Which brings us to three new wines in blackpoolmatt's wine club which are defined by their high acid: ideal food wines but also to sip during the upcoming summer months.
Domaine Michel Bérgeon Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2023
Muscadet is the classic example of a wine that has high acid and benefits from food pairings. The wines are made from the Melon grape variety which is neutral in its aromatics, and has high acid in the cool maritime climate of Atlantic Loire. Michel Bérgeon was one of the pioneers of quality Muscadet, understanding that the high acid reflects the terroir of the best villages in the region. The acidity of the best Muscadet is balanced by lees ageing, leaving the wine in contact with the dead yeast cells after fermentation. This is a perfect example.
pair with: fish and chips
Catherine et Pièrre Breton "La Dilettante" Vouvray 2023
All Vouvray, also in the Loire, is made from Chenin Blanc and, regardless of the style of wine, acidity is central to its structure and quality. Sometimes there is a small amount of sugar to balance that acidity, but there's an increasing trend towards dry wines because climate change and better viticulture means a greater ripeness in the grapes. Catherine and Pièrre are among the best producers in Vouvray: classic and traditional, but focused on quality wines that represent the appellation's character.
pair with: pan-seared halibut with lemon caper sauce
Gregoletto Verdiso Colli Trevigiani 2022
Gregoletto is based in the Veneto, where most Prosecco is made. The grape used for Prosecco is Glera, but some of the best wines have another variety called Verdiso in a blend because of its high acidity. Gregoletto was the first producer to make a single-varietal Verdiso, back in 1970, and it remains a speciality of theirs. It’s defined by its acidity, a lean style with a light fruitiness.
pair with: sarde in saor—sardines, onions, pine nuts, and raisins