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graciano

A few years ago I was talking to Liz Bokisch who with her Catalan/German husband Markus runs the Bokisch winery in Lodi, California. In the 1990s, they pioneered plantings of Spanish/Portuguese grape varieties in the region. They make a single-varietal Graciano, which is originally from Rioja, and I asked her about the variety. She practically swooned as she eugolized about what she called her favorite variety, but then sighed, “But it’s so, so difficult to work with.” And that’s why Graciano by the late 1970s in its native Rioja was almost extinct. It was only because Spain in general returned to...

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champagne, crémant, crémant d'alsace, crémant de bourgogne, crémant de loire -

crémant

Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is champagne. There are plenty of alternatives to champagne, even if they vary in style and quality—and not everything should be the same. Champagne itself is a small region, producing around 300m bottles a year—if we had to rely solely on champagne for our bubbles, we’d quickly run out, not just of wine but money. The closest international alternatives to champagne are cooler regions like England and Tasmania, though even these high-quality wines vary: the high acidity of England requires some dosage, while Tasmania will be a little fruitier. Franciacorta in...

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albariño, arinto, bical, california, dão, douro, encruzado, godello, portugal, rías baixas, ribeiro, vinho verde -

spotlight on portugal and galicia

Over the last 30 years, wine has become increasingly homogeneous. Walk into any store, whether a supermarket or an independent retailer, and you'll find rows of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the general consumer, there are clear advantages: familiarity, consistency, and quality. However, it doesn't encourage experimentation, which is a great pity as there are so many opportunities to try something new or different. As anyone will know who owns the mammoth Wine Grapes book, co-edited by Jancis Robinson, there are well over 1,300 distinct grape varieties, which gives an idea of the possibilities in producing many different...

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blind tastings -

blind tastings

Tasting wine blind is an eternal source of fascination for those not in the industry and an eternal source of pain for those in the industry taking exams. There’s a great episode of the 90s sitcom Frasier in which Frasier and his brother Niles compete in a blind tasting to become the “Corkmaster” of their local wine club. It’s very funny because it sends up the pomposity of blind tasting, but it’s not necessarily that realistic (which of course isn’t the point)—so how do blind tastings work in reality? In educational terms, that depends on the approach of different organizations....

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aligoté, baga, viognier -

music and wine

All the wines in blackpoolmatt's wine club come with a specific music pairing, matching the wine with an album to listen to while enjoying the bottle. There's also a playlist of songs from each album available on spotify that connects you to all the wines I've chosen that month. There's no scientific method to my pairings. Instead, it's based around mood—just as my mood often reflects why I choose to open a certain bottle of wine. It could be because the weather's cold or hot, because I'm cooking a certain dish, because of who I'm with, or because I just feel...

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