uruguay
Uruguay is a small country that gets overlooked, sandwiched between the much larger Brazil and Argentina. It was founded in 1828 as a buffer between those two South American giants, and from the outside it may seem that this country of three million people is nothing more than a geographical anomaly. But its capital city, Montevideo, was the main port for South America under Spanish rule and was the centre of philosophical debate in the late nineteenth century, which led to Uruguay hosting and winning the first football World Cup in 1930. And they won the World Cup again in 1950 in Brazil, which still haunts Brazil's national psyche.
Uruguayans drink plenty of wine, second only to Argentina in South America (though figures can be erratic). 2022 statistics show that per capita Uruguayans drank 21.4 litres of wine each year; compare that to the USA where it's just over 10 litres. Wine in Uruguay is part of everyday culture, heavily based around food—fish from the Atlantic and, like Argentina, meat.
After independence from Spain in the early nineteenth century, many South American countries saw waves of immigration from Europe, particularly France, Italy, and Germany, all wine-producing countries. This led to the modernisation of the countries' wine industries and the plantings of French varieties, often from south-west France: Carménère in Chile, Malbec in Argentina, and Tannat in Uruguay.
Tannat, which originates from Madiran, a region just north of French Basque country, is a tricky variety—as its name suggests, it has very high tannins. But it's well-suited to Uruguay because its thick skins and large leaves make it resistant to fungal diseases. Uruguay's climate is very similar to Bordeaux's (as well as Rías Baixas in Spain and Long Island in New York State): humid, wet, with moderate temperatures. That makes rot and mildew a potential issue, but which Tannat avoids.
There are plenty of other varieties planted too. Merlot in Uruguay is superb, not surprisingly as its climate is similar to Bordeaux. Sauvignon Blanc—another variety planted in Bordeaux—is excellent, earthy and lightly herbaceous with very fresh acidity. Albariño, which also has thick skins and is from the Atlantic climate of Rías Baixas, also produces extremely good wines.
Think of Uruguay as part of an Atlantic network, in its history, trade, climate, and styles of wine. Even if you've never been to Uruguay, if you've been to Bordeaux, Galicia, or Long Island you'll recognise the growing conditions: and then the wines quickly begin to make sense.
three Uruguay wines in blackpoolmatt's wine club
Garzón is the biggest producer in Uruguay and one of the few widely available in the USA. I was already familiar with their wines, but tasting through their range reminded me of what a good job they do in making consistently high-quality wines which are representative of Uruguay. The wines are well-priced and a perfect introduction to Uruguay.
Garzón Rosé Reserva 2024
This is from Pinot Noir, not a variety widely planted in Uruguay, but which makes lovely rosé: fresh, delicate, light, but with a gentle fruitiness and a herbal, spicy texture pair with: ensalada criolla (summer salad)
Garzón Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2024
Uruguayan Sauvignon Blanc is just wonderful, a classic representation of the variety from a country that isn't immediately associated with wine let alone Sauvignon Blanc. In a blind tasting, this could be mistaken for very good Bordeaux, with an earthy, lees-based character. Another great summer wine, but with more depth and very food-friendly pair with: bacalao con garbanzos (cod with chickpeas)
Garzón Tannat Reserva 2021
The most typical representation of Uruguay: Tannat. Lots of ripe black fruits, generous tannins, immediate, approachable, but with a serious edge to it. An unmistakeable alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon or a fuller-bodied Merlot pair with: churrasquito de vacío (marinated flank steak)