sauvignon blanc with a twist
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can be smelt across the room. It's wonderful in a blind tasting as the tasting note writes itself. These wines remain extremely popular even if they have a (sometimes undeserved) reputation for being too obvious and unsubtle in their pungent, unrestrained aromas.
They also give the impression that all Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same. That's unfair on New Zealand, as there are many different expressions between and within regions. It's also unfair on Sauvignon Blanc as there are many extremely interesting and individual wines from regions not strongly associated with the grape variety.
I recently wrote about a Sauvignon Blanc from one of my favorite Brunello di Montalcino producers, Sesti, which is perhaps the last place one would expect Sauvignon to be found—after all, they only have half a hectare planted. It's a perfect example of how Sauvignon Blanc can surprise and defy expectations.
südsteiermark
Very slightly more expected is Sauvignon Blanc from Sudsteiermark (South Styria) in Alpine Austria. To the south-east of the landlocked country, there is fabulous Sauvignon Blanc produced but it's not that much known outside the country (Austrians like to keep the best wines to themselves). The vines are planted in the foothills of the Alps with a cool continental climate ideal for Sauvignon.
Weingut Gross is a winery dating back to the 1800s but revived by Alois Gross in the 1980s, and now run by his sons. They have vineyards in both Austria and the other side of the border in Slovenia. I tried their Sauvignon Blanc from both countries and the Austrian wine just about won: weightier than Loire but less pugnacious than New Zealand, the perfect combination.
st-bris
St-Bris is known (if at all) for being the only appellation in Burgundy dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc. There are only 160ha planted, so the wines aren't widely available—if you see a bottle, snap it up. The appellation is just south-west of Chablis near the lovely city of Auxerre, and geographically not that far from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
Clément Lavallée's family has been making wine in Chablis for generations, but he established his own winery in just 2019. He's an exciting new producer, concentrating on Chablis but also making Sauvignon Blanc from St-Bris: "Les copains d'abord" may be the best Sauvignon I've tried with its pristine texture, high acid, gentle fruitiness, elegance, and capacity to age while drinking wonderfully now.
Sometimes it's not the usual suspects that make you understand and appreciate a grape variety.