port
It's the middle of summer so maybe port isn't the first wine that comes to mind. In the UK, where I'm from, port is often seen as a Christmas drink because of its warming nature and the sweetness pairs well with the rich desserts. But port can certainly be enjoyed all year round because of its many different styles, the versatility of the potential food pairings, and its use in cocktails.
quick history
When William of Orange became King of England in 1689, the first thing he did was ban all imports from France (he really hated the French). That created a big problem: no French wine. The solution: import wine from an ally such as Portugal. The longer shipping time, though, meant that the wines had to be fortified with brandy to stabilise them. The high level of alcohol made them popular in England's cold climate: by the turn of the eighteenth century, the average English gentleman drank five pints of port a night. Coincidentally, the average English gentleman routinely suffered from gout.
tourism
Porto, Portugal's second city, is one of the most vibrant European cities to visit. There are many things to enjoy while there, and tasting at the port lodges on the other side of river is a must. They're historic, with cellars going deep into the ground, and giving a real sense of over 300 years of wine history.
Douro Valley is now a one-hour drive inland from Porto, but in the past it was inaccessible by road—up until the 1970s, the only way to transport the wine to Porto was by boat. Opening up Douro to tourists has changed the valley completely, as there is a growing number of great restaurants and hotels. It's one of the most beautiful wine regions I have ever visited, with dramatic terraces overlooking the river: it's a place that everyone should try to visit.
styles of wine
Port is always fortified to around 20% alcohol. Given current trends for no-lo wines this may seem off-putting but it means a little goes a long way. It's also always sweet, with around 100g/l of sugar. Within those parameters, there are lots of variants.
Until the late 1960s, there were two commercial styles of port: Ruby, for youthful drink-now wines, and Vintage, for wines which could last decades. Other styles were introduced to increase the range of wines as fortified wine sales went into decline.
Ruby Reserve is similar to Ruby but from higher-quality grapes. Late Bottled Vintage is an alternative to vintage port, aged for four to six years and designed to be drunk on release. My favorite style is Tawny which is made in a very different way: aged for long periods of time in barrels to produce a wine with pronounced oxidative aromas and a faded appearance. There are different ageing categories: Tawny Reserve has been aged for at least seven years and wines with age designations can be an average of 10, 20, 30, or 40 years old. Although most tawny is non-vintage, there is vintage tawny which is called Colheita.
And then there's White Port, which fits the summer weather perfectly. Although it's been made for decades, it's only recently that producers have started promoting the style. Making a white port tonic cocktail has been part of that promotion and there's no easier cocktail to make: one part white port, two parts tonic water, with an orange slice for garnish, all served on ice.
food pairings
Port is traditionally an after-meal wine, although the French drink Ruby as an aperitif (who said the French knew everything about wine and food?). Any of the styles can be drunk on their own as a digestif, but they also pair with many foods especially chocolate based desserts and tawny goes particularly well with nuttier desserts. Beyond sweet food, port (especially vintage) can be paired with meat and game dishes such as steak, duck, or wild boar.
niepoort
Two new wines to blackpoolmatt's wine club come from one of my favorite port producers, Niepoort. As the name suggests, the heritage is Dutch but the family has been embedded in Portugal for several generations. Dirk Niepoort is a doyen of port (as well as making non-fortified wine), and makes every style. The Dry White Port is ideal for the tonic cocktail, as an alternative to vermouth, or as a light aperitif on its own. The 10-year-old Tawny is a classic example of the style, great for blind tastings, as a digestif, or with dessert.
Both tawny and white port should be served chilled, and there should always be a bottle in the fridge.