carignan
Carignan is one of my favorite grape varieties. It produces wines with a meaty, spicy, black fruit character, high acidity, and a firm tannic structure. It's great on its own and also contributes greatly to blends in southern France and eastern Spain, especially with Grenache/Garnacha. Winemakers across the world are beginning to realize the full potential of Carignan and there are some extremely exciting wines being made.
But ... Carignan is a high-yielding variety and if those yields are unchecked the wines can be dilute and astringent. In the 1970s and 80s it was the most planted variety in both Languedoc and California solely for its yields. As the quality and reputation of California increased, plantings of Carignan fell: there are now just 1,300ha. In Languedoc, the vine-pulling directive to reduce the "wine lake" also saw plantings of Carignan fall from the 1990s onwards; appellation rules were strict on how much Carginan could be in a blend. Carignan got a bad name which still lingers.
But ... if yields are limited then Carignan produces great wine whether in a blend or on its own. Old vines reduce yields and produce concentrated wines which showcase the character of Carignan. Careful, hands-on vitilcuture also aids the quality of the wines.
Jean-Marie Rimbert champions Carignan: he calls himself the "Carignator." In the 1990s, he believed in the quality of Carignan if farmed correctly and other producers have followed his call. He's based in St-Chinian, an appellation in Languedoc formerly known for a low reputation of high-volume wine. Alongside other producers, Jean-Marie has led the drive to quality wines that express the terroir of St-Chinian—the best wines often come from schist soils, though there are other soil types too. St-Chinian is a beautiful, undulating region with untapped potential, but which Jean-Marie and other producers are opening up.
There is also a small amount of Carignan planted in South Africa: the Carignan from Alinea in Breedekloof is a wonderful expression of the variety. Carignan is perfectly suited to a warm Mediterranean climate, maintaining its fresh acidity despite the heat while gaining a lovely, crunchy ripeness.
In many regions, Carignan may have been planted because of its high yields but there are fantastic wines being made from attentive producers across the world: Languedoc, Roussillon, Priorat, Sardegna, California, and South Africa. Proof that informed farming leads to great wines.
*Carignan is also called Samsó, Bovale Grande, Carignano, Mazuelo, Cariñena, Carignane: demonstrating its historical legacy