austria
Austria is a landlocked, largely Alpine country which bridges western and central Europe. It has many connections with neighboring countries, such as Hungary, Slovenia, and Italy, particularly in terms of wine. Because of the Alps, wine production is in the east of the country, in a horseshoe shape spreading from north of Vienna all the way south to the Slovenian border. It's an affluent country and that means the quality of the wine is consistently high.
Blackpoolmatt's wine club has featured Austrian wine in the past, from Grüner Veltliner, which is the most planted variety, and from Blaufränkisch, perhaps Austria's signature black variety. But there are plenty of other varieties too which demonstrate the versatility of Austria's wines.
zweigelt
Most grape varieties are natural crossings of other varieties, for instance Cabernet Sauvignon is the off-spring of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. But there are also human crossings created in a laboratory to make varieties which are easier to work with in the vineyard. Very few of them are truly successful, but some stand out. Zweigelt is an Austrian example, created in 1922 by one Dr. Zweigelt. It's a crossing of Blaufränkisch and Austria's other standout black grape variety, St-Laurent, and has the qualities and characteristics of both: the meaty spiciness of Blaufränkisch and the floral, perfumed aromas of St-Laurent. It's a popular variety because it's easier to grow than its parents, has higher yields, and is deliciously drinkable.
Grassl is a producer based in the small, strangely-named region of Carnuntum which is right outside Vienna. It's a region which focuses on the three black varieties, which is the core of Grassl's production: Zweigelt accounts for 50% of the plantings, with vines up to 45 years old. The family first started bottling wine in the 1950s, but quality really picked up in 2006 when Philipp Grassl took over winemaking: these are seriously exciting but surprisingly affordable red wines. The Zweigelt that's in the club is so much fun, with crunchy, ripe red fruit aromas, spicy and herbal, easy to drink but with substance to it—a perfect example of everything a wine from Zweigelt is capable of.
chardonnay
Austria may not be the first place you think of when you hear the name Chardonnay, but it may have been planted as far back as the 1150s. Historically, it's also called Morillon but for obvious reasons Austrian winemakers usually now just call it Chardonnay. And there is a Burgundian character to Austria's white wines. The best Grüner Veltliner takes on the weight and power of white Burgundy as it ages, and there are some exceptional, ageworthy wines made from Pinot Blanc.
Chardonnay sheds that different light on Austria. Into the club comes Kollwentz, based in the large, important region of Burgenland south of Vienna. It's a producer that really shaped the development of dry, rather than sweet, white wine in the region west of the large shallow lake, Neusiedlersee. The Chardonnay is grown on limestone soils at an elevation of nearly 200m: in a blind tasting, you're calling this Premier Cru Burgundy. It's probably the best Chardonnay I've tried all year, lightly creamy, lightly spicy, generous but not overripe stone fruits: Chardonnay at its finest.
Austria's one of those countries that's full of little surprises, connected to the rest of Europe but very much its own country. And, if you're so inclined, you can watch Sound of Music while you enjoy these wines. Or Amadeus. Or listen to Mozart. Or plan a skiing trip. Or dream of eating a rich chocolate cake in a Viennese café. Let the wine take you there.